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Saturday, August 12, 2023

On Our Way to Keflavik, Iceland, and the Airport

On our last full day in Iceland, we explored a National Park. 

PINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK
Pingvellir, aka Thingvellir, has been a special place for Icelandic peoples for over a thousand years. About 930 AD, local clan chiefs began to gather at this geological landmark for annual meetings. 
This surface crevice grows larger as it extends into the lake.
This great fissure is where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are moving apart. So, half of Iceland sits in America, and the other half is in Europe. The earth's crust is literally being torn apart.
This little creek flows into a small pond and waterfall.
Oxararfoss, meaning Ox Waterfall, plunges over the wall of the rift.
The vertical cliff face is original rock as it was laid down by volcanic eruptions and compressed over the eons.
This is the valley where the clan chieftains set up their temporary living structures. We walked among the archeological foundations. The Law Rock is now marked by a flagpole.
About 930 AD, local clan chiefs began to gather for an annual meeting at this hill, known as The Law Rock. This is where the locals would make laws, settle legal disputes, and arrange marriages.
Churches have sat at this location since 1030. The current church was built in 1859.
Over time, the lakebed has slid into the gap between the plates. Lake Pingvallavatn is very deep and in fact, the deepest parts of the lakebed are actually below sea level. There are snorkeling and diving tours to view the clear, deep fissures in the lakebed.
A paved trail leads from the visitor center in the rift. The North American Plate is on the left, the Eurasian Plate is on the right.

SAYING GOODBYE TO ICELAND
Our last view of Iceland as we flew out of the airport in Keflavik on July 31st.
The skies were clear as we crossed Greenland.
More vast lands with glaciers and waterfalls to explore but not many roads.
This massive glacier was extending down to the fjord.
 

Friday, August 11, 2023

On Our Way to Hruni, Iceland - The Golden Circle

The Golden Circle is composed of three essential sites made up of the Geysir area, Gullfoss and Pingvellir National Park. Ninety percent of tourists only visit this area of Iceland. Many daylong bus trips leave Reykjavik in the morning, returning in the afternoon.

GEYSIR GEOTHERMAL FIELD
Konungshver is a hot pot.
The area's centerpiece, Strokkur, is similar to our Old Faithful. It erupts every five to 10 minutes, sending one quick shot of boiling water 50 feet into the air. 
If you don't have your camera ready and pointing at the Geysir, you will miss the shot.
A green lush valley on the other side of the ridge from the geothermic area.
We walked around and waited for more eruptions of Strokkur.
We weren't disappointed.

GULLFOSS
The falls sit on the wide, glacial Hvita river, which drains from Iceland's interior. The name means "Golden Falls", which is where the name "Golden Circle" is derived. They are called Golden Falls because on a sunny day the falls are said to take on a golden color.
The waterfall has two stages; a rocky upper cascade with a drop of about 35 feet and a lower falls where the water drops 70 feet.
Gullfoss was named as one of the world’s top ten waterfalls by World-of-Waterfalls.
We walked the trail to the upper falls. On this trail we got sprayed from the thunderous falls.
Gullfoss is the largest volume waterfall in Europe.

ICELANDIC HORSES
The Icelandic horse is a breed of horse developed in Iceland. The only breed of horses in Iceland, they are also popular internationally.
The breed is mentioned in literature and historical records throughout Icelandic history. Selective breeding over the centuries has developed the breed into its current form.
From the first day we admired these horses as we traveled Iceland's Ring Road.

ROMANTIC GETAWAY CABIN

This little cabin was a wonderful find, located just off the Golden Circle on a gravel road in a remote area. It came with a hot tub and BBQ grill.
Very new and modern, even had a dishwasher, but still no TV.

 

Heimaey Island, Iceland, in the Westman Islands

The next morning, we had reservations at 10am on the car ferry to the Westman Island of Heimaey. This is an island group off the south coast of Iceland. The Westman Islands are famous for their sharp cliffs and extensive bird nesting populations. We had our BnB reserved for two nights at a working farm near the ferry dock, so we left our belongings at The Little Green Cabin.
We took a few pictures of the livestock on the way out in the morning. These "My Little Pony" horses are breed in Iceland and are commonly seen on farms and ranches throughout the country.
This sweet cow was interested in us as she stands pictured next to the lupine.
Soon her friends came to join.
We drove our Mazda 2 into the hold of this ship for our 40-minute boat ride to the island.
There are 14 islands in this bird watcher's paradise.
Heimaey is the only inhabited island in the archipelago. The narrow harbor entrance is located in the town of Vestmannaeyjar.

HERJOLFSDALUR
An extinct, collapsed, volcanic crater forms a natural amphitheater for concerts and festivals. 
Stairs are available for those who wish to hike the rim.
This is reproduction of a 9th to 10th century Viking long house.
The back of the house was for livestock and the family lived in the front.
Eurasian Oyster Catcher

PUFFIN LOOKOUT
Over 60 percent of the world's population of Atlantic Puffins nest in Iceland.
Lighthouse at the south end of the island.
Sheep help keep the grass mowed. They were panting on this warm 60-degree day.
The sheep rub on the fence posts to help shed their winter coat.
Numerous puffins could be seen through our binoculars nesting from this bird blind near the lighthouse.
Pirates Cove where the ocean has nearly separated the island in two.
This crescent shaped bay is where in 1627 Algerian pirate boats landed and captured most of the islanders for the slave trade.
A cruise ship was anchored within the narrow mouth of the harbor. It is barely wide enough for a large ship to pass. The depth was increased and is maintained with a powerful dredging barge.

STAFKIRKJAN OR STAVE CHURCH
This Stave Church was gifted to Iceland by Norway. It was built in 2000 to commemorate the 1,000th anniversary of Iceland’s conversion to Christianity. The state religion of both countries is Lutheran. The Stave Church stands on the grassy area by the harbor. It is a replica of the first church in Vestmannaeyjar.
 
Simple Altar
A double wall construction surrounding the exterior walls was used to help control the inside temperature.
Remnants of the city's water tank which felt the fury of Eldfell in 1973.
Half of the town was destroyed by the 1973 eruption. From this hill, we could see the point at which the lava flow stopped.

ELDHEIMAR VOLCANO MUSEUM
In the middle of the night of January 21, 1973, a volcanic eruption started along a fissure just above the town of Vestmannaeyjar. Most of the residents were evacuated. The eruption lasted six months, destroying a third of the town. Lava from the newly formed Eldfell Volcano expanded the island by 20 percent. Islanders were afraid that the already narrow, protected harbor would be sealed by the lava, so sea water was sprayed on the hot lava 24 hours a day to try to stem its flow.  Because of the high cliffs surrounding the island, if their attempt was not successful the island, without a harbor, would have become a ghost town.

This museum tells the story of the 1973 Eldfell eruption which destroyed over 400 homes.
The museum was built around an actual house that had been buried in 20 feet of ash.
Many of the houses are still under ash.
After having dinner at Tanginn Restaurant, which featured horse steak and Minke whale on the menu, we boarded the 7pm ferry for our 40-minute return to the mainland. We were glad we had ferried our car across with us because it allowed us to explore the entire island using the 17 miles of existing roads. We helped a hitchhiking U.S. family who did not bring their car and were exhausted from walking. I think we were over the weight limit after the family of four somehow crammed into our backseat.
 
We sat at the stern watching the islands fade away in the setting sun.